Ahh, the wilderness.  Stepping into the steaming thermal waters of a natural hot spring pool, surrounded by white and black spruce trees, jack pine, tamarack and balsam fir.  The muted sounds of a breeze rustling through the trees and the gurgle of the cool stream as it joins the hot pool, cooling the water to a warm bathing temperature. The bliss of Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park.

This little piece of paradise is tucked away just off the Alaskan Highway, 300 km west of Fort Nelson, 212 southeast of Watson Lake, Yukon and about 60 km from Muncho Lake Provincial Park, were Bob and I had set up camp.

From the day use parking area, follow the 600m (984 ft) well-maintained walkway to the hot springs.  This path follows a unique warm water marsh.  Other hot springs in Canada flow into lakes, but these hot springs flow into a series of swamps. This is the most unique feature of the park.  During the winter, when the rest of the north is buried in snow and sub-zero temperatures, warm water flows into these swamps and prevents them from freezing.  This micro-climate allows species to thrive that would otherwise be absent in the Canadian north, such as the carnivorous bladderwort, sundew and butterwort plants, and 14 species of orchids.

Wildlife

Several species of wildlife make this swamp their home, and there is always something to see.  Mule deer often make an appearance and black and grizzly bears have also been spotted. We stopped to watch a moose feeding in the marsh, the only moose we saw on this road trip!

Many types of songbirds inhabit this swamp area, and many others stop for extended stays on their migrations.  You may see woodpeckers, thrushes, warblers, sparrows, gulls, swallows, blackbirds, kingfishers, nighthawks, and bohemian waxwings.

The Pools

At the Alpha pool, the only pool open to bathers, temperatures vary from 42°C to 52°C. In one area, a stream flows into pool, cooling the surrounding water.  Bob and I favoured the middle section where we found the temperature “just right”.

History

In the past, First Nations would paddle the Liard River on hunting trips and use the hot springs as a traditional cleansing spot.  From about 1830-1870 the river was also used by fur traders with the Hudson’s Bay Company, but the rapids above the springs were very dangerous, and a safer route was found.

American soldiers built the first boardwalk and facilities in 1942, while they were building the Alaska Highway.  When the war was over, Canada took over the highway, rebuilding most of it for use by civilian traffic and big transport trucks.  The Liard River hot springs became a park in 1957 to protect the unique eco-system and prevent over-development of the area.  Sixty years later, the natural setting and protected marshlands are a testimony to the dedication of BC Parks.

Other activities at this park include camping and a short hike to the “Hanging Gardens,” lush vegetation and tufa formations.  Tufa is a soft and porous type of limestone that forms as acidic natural hot springs emerge from underground.  See https://www.sandatlas.org/limestone/ for more information on this and other interesting rocks and their formations.

For sights and activities outside of the park, please see my blog:  Great Northern Circle Route Itinerary.

Here is my growing list of the parks visited as I continue my quest to visit all 648 BC Parks!!

https://648bcparks.ca/my-bucket-list-places-i-have-visited/